A Dutch organic range built around two base products and a set of biostimulants, made for soil and coco rather than recirculating hydroponics. The doses are not the main thing to understand. An organic line works through the biology in the substrate instead of feeding ions directly to the root. That changes when you feed, how you read EC, and what a deficiency means. This guide covers what each product does, how the phases progress, the pH target and how to adapt the line to a tropical grow room.
For the brand itself, see topic 22 (BioBizz). For the full organic-versus-mineral comparison, see topic 1091 (Organic vs Synthetic). This guide follows the same usage-guide format as topics 1109, 1118 and 1127.
1. The operating principle in brief
Topic 1091 covers the theory. In short: a mineral solution gives the plant ions it can take up directly. An organic line’s nutrients are bound in organic compounds that soil microbes have to mineralise before a root can use them. In practice, this means four things:
There is a lag. What you feed today is not available today. Corrections take days, not hours. If you suspect a deficiency in an organic system, top-dress or feed and then wait. Do not keep raising the dose.
EC tells you little about nutrient supply. EC measures dissolved ions. A liquid organic feed often reads low on an EC meter even though it carries a lot of nutrition, because much of it is in organic forms that are not ionised yet. So a low EC reading does not mean a weak feed, and you cannot read an organic feed the way you read a mineral one. Use EC for your source water and for trends over time, not as a measure of how much food the plant has (see topic 392, pH & EC). Unusual runoff readings in either direction are still worth looking into. They are not automatically harmless.
Substrate quality is part of the nutrient programme. A biologically dead substrate cannot mineralise organic inputs. That is why the feed charts have separate columns for different substrates.
Overfeeding is harder but not impossible, and it damages the biology as well as the roots. Our forum advice: when in doubt, feed less.
2. The products
Main products only:
| Product | Role |
|---|---|
| Bio·Grow | The base nitrogen source. The current chart uses it through veg and flowering |
| Bio·Bloom | A phosphorus- and potassium-rich bloom nutrient |
| Top·Max | A biostimulant for flowering. The manufacturer says it increases flower size and weight. This is a manufacturer claim, not independently verified |
| Fish·Mix | A mild all-round organic fertiliser, suited to long vegetative periods and mother plants. It can replace Bio·Grow during growth. Use one or the other, not both |
| Root·Juice | Root development stimulant, used at propagation and early on |
| Alg·A·Mic | Seaweed-based stimulant, used for stress recovery and transitions |
| Bio·Heaven | Energy booster / uptake enhancer |
| Acti·Vera | Aloe-based additive, positioned as a plant tonic |
The range also includes CalMag (a supplement for soft or RO water), Leaf·Coat (a ready-to-use leaf-protection spray), Microbes (a dry microbial inoculant) and the Bio·Up / Bio·Down pH regulators.
About Fish·Mix: feed does not decide when a photoperiod cannabis plant flowers. Light hours do. Fish·Mix is useful because it is a gentle general feed for plants you keep in veg for a long time. That fits mother plants in a perpetual-harvest setup, which you maintain indefinitely. The current chart says to switch to Bio·Grow when the flowering stage begins.
3. The phase progression
The general shape of the older published soil schedules:
| Phase | Products |
|---|---|
| Weeks 1–2 | Root·Juice only |
| Weeks 3–5 | Bio·Grow and/or Fish·Mix introduced |
| Weeks 6–8 | Transition toward Bio·Bloom; Top·Max added around week 7 |
| Weeks 9–13 | Main bloom phase |
| Final week | Plain water |
Chart revisions differ. The current 2025 peat-free chart is shorter. It starts Root·Juice at propagation and lets the veg stage run “as long as you need it to”. Flowering then has 8 feeding weeks, with “week 9 plain water, week 10 harvest”. Follow whichever chart matches the substrate you bought.
Two commonly quoted starting rules. Check them against your current chart:
- Hold the base feeds until plants reach about 10–15 cm or have 2–4 leaves. A seedling in a pre-fertilised substrate does not need feeding, and feeding it early is a common cause of early problems.
- Water about 2–3 times a week without aiming for runoff.
The second rule is a real difference from a mineral programme. In coco or hydro you irrigate to substantial runoff to flush accumulated salts. In an organic soil programme you build up much less mineral salt, and heavy runoff washes out the organic matter and biology you are trying to grow. Feed to moisten, not to flush.
4. Dosing guidance
On the current official chart, most liquids sit at roughly 1–4 ml/L. Most are at 2–4 ml/L, and Top·Max is at 1–3 ml/L. Microbes is dosed in grams: 0.2–0.4 g/L.
The chart’s only combination rule is for foliar use. It says Alg·A·Mic, Acti·Vera and Fish·Mix can also be applied as a foliar spray:
“When using 1 or 2 of the products, 1 to 2 ml/L water of each. When using all 3 products, max. 1 ml/L water of each.”
That rule covers those three foliar products only, and foliar spraying stops once flowers form (section 7).
Forum advice, not a manufacturer rule: the more products you stack in one feed, the lower each one should go. “I used everything at full rate” damages plants on any line.
We are not reproducing a full week-by-week table here. The schedules differ between substrates and between chart revisions, and a snapshot would go out of date.
Get the current official schedule. Check that you are using the column for your actual substrate, confirm the units are ml/L, and start below the chart rather than at it.
5. pH
Target 6.2–6.5, per manufacturer guidance. That is higher than a hydroponic target and right for soil.
One caveat: organic-growing culture sometimes overstates how forgiving organic systems are. They tolerate more pH variation than mineral systems, but they are not indifferent to it. Micronutrient lockout still happens outside the range. Measure (topic 392).
6. Substrate choice matters more here than the additives
The main BioBizz substrates and soil products include:
- Light·Mix: lightly pre-fertilised, for growers who want to control feeding from early on.
- All·Mix: more heavily pre-fertilised, so it needs less added feed early on.
- Peat-free versions of both, with their own chart columns.
- Coco·Mix: a coco substrate for growers who prefer coco.
- Pre·Mix: a dry organic fertiliser blend for building or re-charging your own substrate.
Choose deliberately. If you feed All·Mix on the Light·Mix schedule, you are overfeeding from the first week.
A regional note on substrate. These substrates are imported European products and priced accordingly. Two things follow:
The cost calculation is different here. In Thailand or Vietnam, a bagged imported substrate makes up a much bigger share of input costs than it does in the Netherlands.
A locally built substrate is a real alternative. A biologically active soil made from local components, such as a raised-bed or living-soil mix, works on the same principle this nutrient line assumes. If you like how an organic programme behaves, building the soil locally often makes more economic sense here. The liquid products can be used on a well-built local substrate.
One warning if you reuse substrate: peat is naturally acidic, and growers who recycle peat-heavy mixes often report the pH drifting down over several reuses. Test pH before each reuse rather than assuming.
7. Adapting to a tropical climate
Faster mineralisation. Temperature affects how fast organic nitrogen mineralises. In a lab incubation of four dry high-nitrogen organic fertilisers (feather meal, seabird guano, fish powder and blood meal), Hartz & Johnstone (2006, HortTechnology) found that 47–60% of the organic nitrogen mineralised within two weeks. Over 10–25 °C the temperature effect was modest: the 8-week average was 56% at 10 °C and 66% at 25 °C. That study used dry meals, not liquid feeds, and did not test 30 °C. Still, the direction is clear. Expect a substrate’s pre-charge to run out somewhat sooner in a hot room than the chart assumes, and watch for early fading rather than counting weeks.
Watering frequency. The 2–3 times a week guidance assumes temperate transpiration. In a hot room, water more often. Judge it by pot weight and by pushing a finger into the substrate, not by the calendar.
No runoff, but watch for salt from your water. The feed-to-moisten approach assumes low-mineral irrigation water. If your source water carries a significant mineral load, minerals build up in the pot with nothing flushing them out. That is common across this region and varies by season. Measure your source water’s EC/TDS. If it is high, either treat the water or accept that you will need to flush now and then, which partly defeats the method. If you use RO or very soft water, the chart’s CalMag note applies.
Organic solutions spoil in heat. Mix only what you will use. A nutrient-rich organic solution standing in a 30 °C room can go anaerobic and sour quickly, and what you pour into the pot is then no longer what you mixed.
Humidity and foliar products. This forum’s standing advice is to stop all foliar applications when flowers form. That includes Leaf·Coat and the foliar uses of Alg·A·Mic, Acti·Vera and Fish·Mix. In a humid climate this matters even more.
8. Where an organic line does and does not make sense
Topic 1091 covers the general comparison. Specific to this line:
It suits: soil and coco growers; growers who want a simple programme with a short product list; growers who would rather not manage a reservoir.
It does not suit: recirculating hydroponics, because an organic solution in a recirculating reservoir goes anaerobic and fouls the system. It also does not suit growers who need to correct a deficiency within hours, or setups that need precise, verifiable nutrient concentrations.
On the quality argument: many organic-growing sources claim that organically grown cannabis has better flavour and effect. We could not find controlled sensory or analytical work comparing organically and mineral-fertilised cannabis. It is a widely held view, and it is unverified.
On residue and safety: the type of fertiliser does not decide residue. Mineral fertilisers do not create pesticide residues, and organic inputs are not automatically clean. Some organic inputs, such as guano, manures and some fish or seaweed products, can carry heavy metals or microbial contamination. Cannabis readily takes up heavy metals from its substrate. Both systems need clean, documented inputs and testing, and in regulated medical production (for example, flower from a GACP-certified site) the testing applies whatever fertiliser you use. The argument for an organic line that does hold up is substrate health.
9. Common mistakes
- Feeding base nutrients too early. Hold off until roughly 10–15 cm or 2–4 leaves, unless your current chart says otherwise.
- Using the wrong substrate column. All·Mix, Light·Mix and their peat-free versions each have their own column.
- Stacking every product at full rate. The more products you combine, the lower each dose should be. For foliar sprays, the chart caps Alg·A·Mic, Acti·Vera and Fish·Mix at 1 ml/L each when all three are used together.
- Reading EC like a mineral grower. A low EC does not mean a weak organic feed.
- Raising doses to chase a deficiency instead of allowing for the mineralisation lag.
- Irrigating to heavy runoff and washing out the organic matter.
- Mixing large batches and storing them in a hot room.
- Ignoring your source water’s mineral content in a low-runoff programme.
Has anyone here run this line on a locally built substrate instead of the imported bagged product? The nutrient logic does not depend on the substrate brand. It needs biology, not a particular brand of peat. Given import prices in this region, the combination looks like it should work well. If you have tried it, please post the comparison.
Related reading on this forum: topic 22 (BioBizz), topic 1091 (Organic vs Synthetic), topic 392 (pH & EC), and the other brand usage guides in topics 1109, 1118 and 1127.
Disclosure: the posting account sells this brand. This guide is educational and is not a substitute for the manufacturer’s chart. Product formulations and feed charts change, so always check the manufacturer’s current documentation for doses. Cannabis is regulated differently in every country. In Thailand, cannabis flower is a controlled herb under the Notification of the Ministry of Public Health Re: Controlled Herbs (Cannabis) B.E. 2568. Flower may be dispensed only against a prescription on form PT 33 from an authorised practitioner. Online sale or advertising of flower is prohibited, and recreational use is not permitted. Cultivation requires notification or licensing under the applicable Ministry of Public Health rules. The Cannabis Control Act is still a draft: the Cabinet approved it on 22/09/2026 and sent it to the House. Nothing here is legal advice.